A Do-Over Honeymoon in Hawaii

A couple soaks up Oahu’s charm on a romantic getaway.

The late-morning sun shines bright as I steer our rental car out of Honolulu, a cup of coffee in one hand, the lush Wai’anae Mountains and an iridescent rainbow seemingly just out of reach of the other. My wife, Hailima, sits beside me. It’s our first day on Oahu, our honeymoon do-over getaway seven months in the making.

Traveling for us is about enjoying life together and exploring local culture and flavors, so last night’s live music and sunset dinner at Duke’s Waikiki along Waikiki Beach was a perfect start to the trip. Today, we plan to circle the island, driving from Honolulu to Kaneohe on Kamehameha Highway, a 105-mile journey of coastal beauty and mesmerizing island charm.

Why is this trip our honeymoon do-over? After our wedding in Alaska in 2019, we left for what was supposed to be a week of adventure and romance. Two days into the trip, however, I sat in a hotel room overlooking Las Vegas as Hailima lay in bed, too sick to move.

Now, eager for our adventure to begin at last, I set my coffee aside as Hailima turns up the music. It’s time to drive.

Back in the car, our drive turns into a pleasant crawl. Maybe it’s the rural charm of “old Hawaii,” or the opportunity to make frequent stops to lounge on the sand in picturesque coves. It could be the 35-mph speed limit. Or perhaps it’s the plethora of food trucks parked near the old Kahuku Sugar Mill just 7 miles from Ted’s. We aren’t hungry, but some sampling seems in order.

Whatever the cause, an overwhelming urge to slow down overtakes us, and so we miss out on the full experience at the storied Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie. Instead, we cruise the remaining 23 miles down the eastern coast, taking delight in the natural beauty all the way to Kaneohe.

Later, after watching a gorgeous sunset back in Honolulu, we celebrate with dinner and dessert at The Signature Prime Steak & Seafood Restaurant atop the Ala Moana Hotel. The sweeping view 36 floors above the city’s twinkling skyline is the most romantic setting of the trip so far. And the Fuji apple pie, Hailima says, is “the best I’ve ever had.”

Lounging on a Famous Beach, Exploring a Temple

The next morning, we have visions of hiking Diamond Head and visiting Pearl Harbor, but as we check out of the hotel, we decide to take it easy. About 25 minutes southeast of Honolulu, just off Kalaniana’ole Highway, we find Halona Beach Cove. Featured in the 1953 movie “From Here to Eternity,” the cove is certainly romantic, but we opt not to re-enact the film’s famous passionate kissing scene – too many people.

Then it’s off to Byodo-In Temple, nestled below the Ko’olau Mountains, 25 minutes north along Highways 72 and 83. The temple is a small-scale replica of the original 950-year-old structure in Uji, Japan. We ring the “bon-sho,” or sacred bell, to impart deep peace and bring happiness, then take off our shoes and walk inside to light incense in front of a magnificent 9-foot-tall statue of the Amida Buddha. Back outside, we stroll through lush gardens and then talk for a while about our future together as we sit along the edge of the reflecting pond.

Our weekend comes to a close over drinks as we exchange travel stories with another couple we meet at Paradise Bay Resort, a serene getaway 15 minutes north of Kaneohe.

Lounging on a Famous Beach, Exploring a Temple

The next morning, we have visions of hiking Diamond Head and visiting Pearl Harbor, but as we check out of the hotel, we decide to take it easy. About 25 minutes southeast of Honolulu, just off Kalaniana’ole Highway, we find Halona Beach Cove. Featured in the 1953 movie “From Here to Eternity,” the cove is certainly romantic, but we opt not to re-enact the film’s famous passionate kissing scene – too many people.

Then it’s off to Byodo-In Temple, nestled below the Ko’olau Mountains, 25 minutes north along Highways 72 and 83. The temple is a small-scale replica of the original 950-year-old structure in Uji, Japan. We ring the “bon-sho,” or sacred bell, to impart deep peace and bring happiness, then take off our shoes and walk inside to light incense in front of a magnificent 9-foot-tall statue of the Amida Buddha. Back outside, we stroll through lush gardens and then talk for a while about our future together as we sit along the edge of the reflecting pond.

Our weekend comes to a close over drinks as we exchange travel stories with another couple we meet at Paradise Bay Resort, a serene getaway 15 minutes north of Kaneohe.