The Nature Of Seattle

The city itself pulses with the energy of a place thick with local values and community. Tattooed, mustachioed baristas whip up finely-tuned espresso for thick-chested (and even thicker-bearded) fishermen sporting their signature orange bibs while the two exchange news of the local banter. Both are blood and bone representations of Seattle and both can be found at one of the cities many fine restaurants.

Seattle is a port city. Towering cranes resembling giant orange dinosaurs, shipping containers en route to Asia, ferries that make their way back and forth to the many islands, and Fishermen’s Terminal, the working dock of Seattle’s commercial fishing fleet in the Interbay neighborhood. Proud, bearded old salts swinging nets and rigging ropes are scattered in this moving, living organism that is the Seattle fishing industry. Restaurants and shops serving seafood pulled right off the boats are available to visitors looking for respite from the freezing air, but the heart of the operation lies in the many docks open to the public. Brave the blustering winds and you’ll be rewarded with visions of shiny metal vessels, calloused and weathered by the storms they’ve tallied, repping names equal to their voyages, (Yankee Maid, Husky, the Emancipator.) Expect to be chatted up by the fishermen and women whistling while they work, poking fun and testing little ones about their sea knowledge.

Rich in organic, sustainable farms, sea bounty and world-class foraging, the palate of Washington is bursting with juicy alpine berries, wildly beautiful woodland mushrooms, crisp orchard fruits and achingly fresh seafood. Satisfying, yet light, diners can expect to experience flavorful, nourishing meals that leave you feeling satiated and balanced. Oysters, mussels, clams, crab, seaweed, salmon, octopus and more are prized local specialties and you won’t find them fresher anywhere else.

In no place is this more apparent than in Seattle restaurateur Renee Erickson’s “The Walrus and The Carpenter.” Renowned worldwide and named a personal favorite by Bon Appétit’s restaurant editor, The Walrus (as it’s affectionately known to locals), is a top-notch oyster bar in an absolutely unbelievable setting. Past a giant coral-like chandelier are hand-drawn illustrations of the lively poem the restaurant is inspired after. Marble countertops circle the open kitchen in this intimate space where diners can enjoy an up-close view of their dinner being shucked as evening light pours in over the Ballard Mill Marina. Hand-written chalkboard signs sport names of the shellfish, their farms and locations.

The space is cozy, welcoming and draws a connection to its nautical location, but the key ingredient in this Pacific Northwest take on French-style dining is the people. A small team with a large respect for one another and a passionate devotion to the food, farmers and purveyors are a common thread. Chef de Cuisine Bobby Palmquist (who came to work for Renee after meeting her while working on a farm she visited to source produce), describes working for Renee as positive and adventurous and notes his favorite part of working in her kitchen is the creative freedom he gets. The restaurant still sources its produce from this farm and enjoys serving it to the farmers that come in to dine often.

As someone who makes every move conscientiously, Renee speaks about the responsibility she feels to the purveyors and farmers she sources ingredients from and the reflection diners relate to them through her restaurant. Renee values her employees, as indicated by the $15 hourly wages, health care and benefits she provides. Renee’s new “tip-free” instigation allows her to move those charges into her dishes and distribute the income fairly among employees.

In addition to the nautical-style digs and patio views, the interior of the restaurant is a work of art in itself. A whimsical interpretation drawing heavily from Wes Anderson's “The Life Aquatic,” the bar boasts a custom-built ship, complete with fun fantasies and scenarios played out in between liquor bottles. Framed paintings of Bill Murray hang on the concrete walls, and a wood-fired oven is continually tended to in the back. A wall built entirely of glass opens in the summer to continue the space outdoors. In the winter, light shines off the water, filling the spacious dining room.The laid-back atmosphere makes it impossible not to turn a cocktail into a meal, and a meal into another cocktail. Waiters so friendly you feel like old friends casually take your order wherever you sit (inside or out). As the sun lowers, lights begin to appear on the ships in the harbor, and the city casts an illuminating glow on the water just in time to grab a few more of those blankets.